It seems you have looked at every used car in your area and have finally decided on that one special gem to purchase. Before you plunk down all your change, you need to make sure this little jewel is worth what you are willing to pay and the used car salesman is willing to accept.
Here are a few tips for used car inspection:-
1) Body damage – this is a little tricky to determine but you can do some checking. Open the hood and trunk and inspect the paint edges feeling to see if it is rough. Look for overspray on the inside of these areas and also make sure the paint inside the hood matches the outside of the vehicle. Stand in front of the car at each corner and look down the body line of the vehicle checking for waves. Open the doors and look for overspray or a paint line on the door jams.
2) Engine and transmission – pop the hood and look carefully at the engine and do not be fooled by a clean compartment. Look at the belts and hoses, the air filter; check the oil and transmission fluid by sniffing it. If you smell smoke, that could indicate problems. Start up the car and listen to the engine for knocks and metal noises; put the transmission in gear – does it clunk or go smoothly. Look under the vehicle for leaks – if you find water don’t worry that’s just the a/c.
3) Electrical – start the car and turn on all the electrical features making sure everything works properly. Windows should roll up smoothly and quick, door locks should function, the a/c should blow cold, the heat should heat and always check the windshield defroster – if it smokes or has a funny smell, the heater core could be bad. Make sure the wipers work properly as well as the horn, turn signals, hazards and headlights.
4) Test Drive – make sure to check all functions of the moving vehicle including the brakes, steering, suspension, engine response and transmission. Before you take off look at the tires and inspect the wear and tread depth. If the tires have scalloping or damage you should get the dealer to replace them prior to purchase.
5) After the Test Drive – turn off the car, pop the hood checking for temperature issues and smell. Also get back down again and look under the vehicle checking for any residue on any surfaces.
6) Before you buy – take the car to a trusted mechanic and have them go over it as well. Ask for receipts and service or repair invoices as well.
If your potential car purchase lives through all that scrutiny then buy it. If it fails a few tests, you will need to determine the potential costs you might incur and if you really want to buy a vehicle with possible problems.
The bottom line is, it is next to impossible to determine if a vehicle is good or bad, but you can decide whether or not it is worth the risk of buying.
Source:- articlesbase
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Sunday, August 30, 2009
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Used Vehicle Inspections - Inspecting the Body
The main things to look for in vehicle inspections are collision and care. How well the car body was cared for and are there indications that the car was in a collision.
Consider the general appearance of the car. People who care for their vehicle properly care for the obvious things first; this indicates how well the entire vehicle was cared for. Record any defects you find. After inspecting five cars you won’t even remember what color your own car is.
Look for windshield dings and cracks, worn out wiper blades, mismatched or missing wheel covers, fender damage and dents, cracked headlight or tail light lenses and damaged mirrors. Later on you can use these to negotiate a lower price or get the dealer to repair them.
Look for corrosion and collision. Both are bad. Corrosion never heals itself; it only corrodes more with time. The problem with collision is you have no idea how well the repair was made. Sometimes the repair shop cuts corners on the quality; sometimes it is the previous owner. You should avoid a car that has obviously been involved in a major collision. The potential future problems include early corrosion, air conditioning problems and bad tire wear.
Don’t rush through the car body inspection, a small thing undetected now can grow into a major problem later. Look down the side from about 10 feet in front and behind the car for each side. The lines on adjacent panels should be straight. Look in the paint for a smooth reflection. Look especially for ripples. They didn’t make the car with sides like a rippled potato chip.
Look at the color of the paint from near and far and various angles. The color should be uniform and similar in smoothness if it was all painted at the same time (when the car was new). If not it may have a repainted section.
When the car was new, the gaps between body panels were straight and all the gaps were the same size. Check for corrosion. Corrosion only gets worse. If you can see surface corrosion, there is probably much that you can’t see.
Frame parts and many other components that are hidden under the car corrode also. Use a magnet to find body filler. The Magnet won’t be attractive to body filler only metal. The car wasn’t built with any body filler.
As soon as you determine the car has been in a major collision, it’s time to move on to the next car. Sometimes the repair is done with non-OEM substitute parts to save money. In a front end collision the air conditioner condenser can be damaged. It will only work for a while and fail later on, a costly repair. Some front end collisions cause frame damage which will impact the structural integrity of the car and can adversely affect tire wear.
What is the best way to keep from buying a car that has been in a major collision? People don’t volunteer information about collisions involving the car.
Consider the general appearance of the car. People who care for their vehicle properly care for the obvious things first; this indicates how well the entire vehicle was cared for. Record any defects you find. After inspecting five cars you won’t even remember what color your own car is.
Look for windshield dings and cracks, worn out wiper blades, mismatched or missing wheel covers, fender damage and dents, cracked headlight or tail light lenses and damaged mirrors. Later on you can use these to negotiate a lower price or get the dealer to repair them.
Look for corrosion and collision. Both are bad. Corrosion never heals itself; it only corrodes more with time. The problem with collision is you have no idea how well the repair was made. Sometimes the repair shop cuts corners on the quality; sometimes it is the previous owner. You should avoid a car that has obviously been involved in a major collision. The potential future problems include early corrosion, air conditioning problems and bad tire wear.
Don’t rush through the car body inspection, a small thing undetected now can grow into a major problem later. Look down the side from about 10 feet in front and behind the car for each side. The lines on adjacent panels should be straight. Look in the paint for a smooth reflection. Look especially for ripples. They didn’t make the car with sides like a rippled potato chip.
Look at the color of the paint from near and far and various angles. The color should be uniform and similar in smoothness if it was all painted at the same time (when the car was new). If not it may have a repainted section.
When the car was new, the gaps between body panels were straight and all the gaps were the same size. Check for corrosion. Corrosion only gets worse. If you can see surface corrosion, there is probably much that you can’t see.
Frame parts and many other components that are hidden under the car corrode also. Use a magnet to find body filler. The Magnet won’t be attractive to body filler only metal. The car wasn’t built with any body filler.
As soon as you determine the car has been in a major collision, it’s time to move on to the next car. Sometimes the repair is done with non-OEM substitute parts to save money. In a front end collision the air conditioner condenser can be damaged. It will only work for a while and fail later on, a costly repair. Some front end collisions cause frame damage which will impact the structural integrity of the car and can adversely affect tire wear.
What is the best way to keep from buying a car that has been in a major collision? People don’t volunteer information about collisions involving the car.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Where To Get a Used Car Inspected and What Is Covered
No piece of car buying advice is more often ignored than this: Have a mechanic inspect a used car before you buy it. Why do buyers plunk down thousands of dollars on a car with little more than an around-the-block test-drive and a glance under the hood? Three reasons deter car buyers from taking this vital step:
* Most consumers don't know that good used car inspections are readily available.
* Many car buyers don't want to pay the extra money for an inspection.
* Some people anticipate a hassle prying the car away from a dealer or private party.
With a little planning, the vehicle inspection process can be as fast and revealing as a Hollywood exposé. If the inspection report is clean, you can buy with confidence. If it unearths a checkered past, you can back away or negotiate a lower price in line with the cost of repairs.
What It Costs, What It Covers
Nearly all auto service facilities — from chain repair stores to dealerships to independent garages — offer some type of pre-purchase inspection. The going price is about $200, roughly the cost of an hour's labor for a mechanic. Most repair facilities will give a quick description of the number of points in the inspection and how it is conducted. In most cases, however, the findings of inspections are not guaranteed.
Automotive experts agree that a good inspection serves several functions:
* Verifies the equipment, or options, on the car
* Confirms the condition level of the car
* Reveals hidden problems with the body, frame or engine
* Finds engine codes that can reveal engine problems
* Builds confidence in the value of the vehicle
Many major problems that can be spotted by a good inspector include:
Frame damage — If the frame shows damage it indicates the car has been in a serious accident. Unless it has been repaired correctly, the car's wheels might not track properly, causing the vehicle to pull to one side and eventually leading to tire damage.
Poor previous repair work — This could range from sloppy bodywork to improper installation of modifications.
Smoker's car — If a car is being purchased remotely, via eBay for example, the seller could disguise the fact that someone has smoked in the car. Smoke gets into the vehicle's headliner and upholstery, and it is impossible to remove the smell.
Flood-damaged car — A vehicle history report can red flag a flood-damaged car unless its title has been falsified. If that's the case, then it's important for an inspector to check for signs of water damage.
Mobile or Garage Inspection?
Many people will be faced with the choice of having a mobile inspector look at a car or taking the vehicle to a local mechanic. While it's most important to get a qualified vehicle inspection, each method offers its advantages and disadvantages.
A mobile inspection is fast and convenient. The inspector comes to your home or office and performs the inspection on-site. An inspection report is printed out on the spot and given to the buyer or seller. Inspectors also photograph any damage and take shots of the vehicle from different angles.
Inspections done by your local mechanic, or the service department of a dealership specializing in that brand of car, are performed with more specialized equipment. Primarily, the car can be put up on a lift and the underside of the car examined for fluid leaks.
While no inspection is guaranteed to find every flaw in a used car, a trained eye can help you avoid serious problems. Given the fact that thousands of dollars are at stake, an hour of your time and a hundred dollars is good insurance against the unknown.
* Most consumers don't know that good used car inspections are readily available.
* Many car buyers don't want to pay the extra money for an inspection.
* Some people anticipate a hassle prying the car away from a dealer or private party.
With a little planning, the vehicle inspection process can be as fast and revealing as a Hollywood exposé. If the inspection report is clean, you can buy with confidence. If it unearths a checkered past, you can back away or negotiate a lower price in line with the cost of repairs.
What It Costs, What It Covers
Nearly all auto service facilities — from chain repair stores to dealerships to independent garages — offer some type of pre-purchase inspection. The going price is about $200, roughly the cost of an hour's labor for a mechanic. Most repair facilities will give a quick description of the number of points in the inspection and how it is conducted. In most cases, however, the findings of inspections are not guaranteed.
Automotive experts agree that a good inspection serves several functions:
* Verifies the equipment, or options, on the car
* Confirms the condition level of the car
* Reveals hidden problems with the body, frame or engine
* Finds engine codes that can reveal engine problems
* Builds confidence in the value of the vehicle
Many major problems that can be spotted by a good inspector include:
Frame damage — If the frame shows damage it indicates the car has been in a serious accident. Unless it has been repaired correctly, the car's wheels might not track properly, causing the vehicle to pull to one side and eventually leading to tire damage.
Poor previous repair work — This could range from sloppy bodywork to improper installation of modifications.
Smoker's car — If a car is being purchased remotely, via eBay for example, the seller could disguise the fact that someone has smoked in the car. Smoke gets into the vehicle's headliner and upholstery, and it is impossible to remove the smell.
Flood-damaged car — A vehicle history report can red flag a flood-damaged car unless its title has been falsified. If that's the case, then it's important for an inspector to check for signs of water damage.
Mobile or Garage Inspection?
Many people will be faced with the choice of having a mobile inspector look at a car or taking the vehicle to a local mechanic. While it's most important to get a qualified vehicle inspection, each method offers its advantages and disadvantages.
A mobile inspection is fast and convenient. The inspector comes to your home or office and performs the inspection on-site. An inspection report is printed out on the spot and given to the buyer or seller. Inspectors also photograph any damage and take shots of the vehicle from different angles.
Inspections done by your local mechanic, or the service department of a dealership specializing in that brand of car, are performed with more specialized equipment. Primarily, the car can be put up on a lift and the underside of the car examined for fluid leaks.
While no inspection is guaranteed to find every flaw in a used car, a trained eye can help you avoid serious problems. Given the fact that thousands of dollars are at stake, an hour of your time and a hundred dollars is good insurance against the unknown.
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